SIZE OF WOOL NEEDED:

Look for this symbol on the label

 

 

 

 

 

 

TYPE OF NEEDLES REQUIRED:

Pair of single-point U.S. Size 8 / U.K. Size 6 / 5mm

Pair of single-point U.S. Size 6 / U.K. Size 8 / 4mm (Used only for the ribbed cuff)

 

ALSO NEEDED:

A Stitch Holder

2 Stitch Markers

A Tapestry or Yarn Needle to sew up your mittens

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cast on 34 stitches with the smaller needles, leaving a medium tail of yarn.

 

Then...

 

ROW 1:  Knit 2, Purl 2, Knit 2, Purl 2, continue to end of row

 

ROW 2:  Purl 2, Knit 2, Purl 2, Knit 2, continue to end of row

 

Continue knitting these 2 rows for a total of 20 rows, ending after the purl row. Be sure to keep count!

 

You need to start using the larger needles now, so use one of the larger needles to knit onto. You also need to increase on this row. So...

 

Knit 3 and on the 4th stitch increase/make 1. Knit 8 and on the 9th stitch, increase/make 1. Knit 7 and on the 8th stitch increase/make 1. Knit 8 and on the 9th stitch increase/make 1. Knit 4.

 

You now have a total of 36 stitches & can now use your other bigger needle so you are working with both bigger needles.

 

Purl the whole next row.

 

Knit the whole next row.

 

Purl the whole next row.

 

Knit the whole next row

 

Purl the whole next row

 

You should still have a total of 36 stitches.

 

Next row, knit 18 stitches and place your stitch marker. On the next stitch, knit and increase/make 1, the next stitch knit and increase/make 1 again and place your second marker so there are 4 stitches between the markers. Finish knitting the rest of the row. You should have 18 stitches on either side and the 4 stitches between the markers.

 

Purl the whole next row.

 

Knit the next row, increasing/making 1 on the first stitch after the marker and the last stitch before the second marker so that you are adding 2 stitches between the markers while keeping your other 18 stitches on either side of them.

 

Purl the next row.

 

Continue to knit and increase by 1 on the first & last sticthes between the markers and purling every other row until you have 14 stitches between the markers.

 

This next row you purl and when you get to the marker, remove it and place the 14 stitches on a stitch holder. Remove the 2nd marker and purl to the end of the row.

 

You knit the next row and the stitch just before the ones on the holder, you increase/make 1 and the same for the next stitch after the holder, so you've added 2 stitches. Knit to the end of the row. You'll have 40 stitches you are working with now and the 14 on the holder set apart.

 

Purl the next row.

 

Continue knitting 1 row and purling the next (which is also called stocking/stockinette stitch) until your work measures 7 inches NOT including the ribbing. So from the top edge of the ribbing to where you are. (It should measure approximately 10.5 inches WITH the ribbing included)

 

Starting the decrease for the top part...

 

ROW 1: Knit the first 2 stitches together then knit 8, knit 2 together, knit 8, knit 2 together, knit 8, Knit 2 together, knit 8.  Leaves you with 36 stitches

 

ROW 2: Purl whole row

 

ROW 3: Knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, knit 7. Leaves you with 32 stitches.

 

ROW 4: Purl row

 

ROW 5: Knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, knit 6.  Leaves you with 28 stitches

 

ROW 6: Purl row

 

ROW 7: Knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, knit 5.  Leaves you with 24 stitches

 

ROW 8: Purl row

 

ROW 9: Knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 4.  Leaves you with 20 stitches

 

ROW 10: Purl row

 

ROW 11: Knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 3. Leaves you with 16 stitches

 

ROW 12: Purl row

 

ROW 13: Knit 2 together for the whole row. Leaves 8 stitches.

 

Break the yarn leaving a long enough tail to use to sew up the side seam. Using your tapestry/yarn needle weave the yarn through the 8 remaining stitches and take them off the needle. You can either sew the seam up right away or finish the thumb first and sew both after.

 

THUMB

 

Carefully tie and knot (as discreetly as possible) the end of your yarn (from the skein/ball) into a stitch at the bottom left hand corner of the hole. Working again with the larger needles, transfer the 14 stitches on the holder onto your left needle.

 

ROW 1: Increase/make 1 on the first stitch, knit 12, increase 1 on the last stitch. You now have 16 stitches.

 

ROW 2: Purl the whole row

 

Continue alternating a knit row and a purl row for 8 more rows

 

ROW 11: Knit 2 together for the whole row. Leaves you with 8 stitches.

 

Break off yarn leaving enough of a tail to sew thumb seam with and weave the tail through the 8 stitches to remove them from the needle.

 

There you have it! All that remains is to sew them up (remember to turn the mitten inside out so you are sewing the seam on the inside)!

 

If you want to use thicker wool like the one we use for the hats, you will have to use the same size needles for the ribbing but smaller needles for the rest (U.S. Size 7 / U.K. Size 7 / 4.5mm) or you may have to experiment with sizes to get it just right.

 

 

 

 

What the Finished Product Will Look Like!

(More photos in our gallery)